Tofo, Mozambique

Sitting here on the coast of Mozambique close to midnight. Screen door is all that separates me from about 75 yards of beach and the Indian Ocean. The breeze is cool at night, just cool enough to keep the windows and doors open for a good night’s sleep but not so cool to need anything more than a sheet under which to sleep.

Martin, Mike, Arjen, Branko and Sean have headed back home after we all settled in on consuming 8 crayfish and about 3 pounds of tuna. I bought the crayfish from a few boys who had just caught them in the ocean a few hours prior. They dive for them here in the waters just off the beach. Sean is a local South African charter boat captain and came over with one of the tuna he had caught also but a few hours before.

On Monday I flew up to Imhambane to meet a friend, Mike Moye, from my hometown. He had rented a small house here on the beach in Tofo. I was desirous to explore the southern half of Mozambique and Mike was generous enough to let me come up this way for about 10 days.

Mozambique is a country on the rise after a few decades of decline following independence in the mid 70’s. The coastline is its strong suit right now boasting 1,500 miles of sun and the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. This being my first stop, I cannot help but think that California might have felt this way in the 30’s and 40’s – a series of unpopulated natural attractions with friendly people strewn about. Parts of the undeveloped North Caroline coast along the Outer Banks near Virginia felt similarly in my youth as did the small fishing village of Salter Path near Emerald Isle. Friendly folks here amidst a steady, but small, stream of Europeans vacation here in a range of accommodation options.

Sean has invited me out for a fishing trip tomorrow. In deference to my seasickness I should not go. Given we can deep sea fish but 3 miles offshore I may well go given I can be deposited ashore in 10 minutes should I begin to chum the waters myself. Future groups will want to fish here so I am inclined to head out. To bed now.